Here's some interesting news... Author/lecturer Terry Breen—long a favorite guest speaker on Regent Seven Seas cruise ships—will spend the 2011 Alaska season aboard Oceania Cruises' 684-passenger Regatta.
Just a reminder that several luxury cruise lines plan to raise fares at the end of 2010. That means you've got just shy of two weeks to make plans at lower rates.
Regent Seven Seas Cruises has announced that it will raise cruise fares on many voyages as of July 1, 2010. Complimentary shore excursions will still be included in the fare for all cruises along with free roundtrip air on certain itineraries.
This has not been a banner day for the luxury cruise industry. First we lose one of the most beautiful yachts sailing the South Pacific (see my post about Nomade Yachting in receivership) and now we're hearing about engine trouble aboard Regent's Seven Seas Voyager. The cruise ship is currently sailing a 14-night itinerary from Rio de Janeiro to Fort Lauderdale.
On the last week of our 52-day Regent Mariner cruise, Alan and I add a dazzling jewel to our cruising crown—Thailand.
Inside the Grand Palace grounds, golden-roofed buildings dazzle us. A hot sun glints off of the colored glass mosaics that seem to cover every surface of the palace structures. Some architectural elements are encrusted with semi-precious stones. It all combines into one brilliant kaleidoscope of colorful buildings.
During this 52-day journey, we’ve seen destinations that are now marked off of our “been there, done that” list. And through Mariner’s introduction to Japan, China, and Thailand, we’ve discovered countries that we’d like to explore on a deeper level.
When Mariner docks at Hong Gai, the port for Hanoi, an 11-hour excursion to Vietnam’s capital city requires a three-hour bus ride each way. But the reward is the opportunity to gaze out the bus window at farmers in coolie hats bending down to tend their rice by hand, observe small shop owners sitting on their haunches in the villages and cities that we pass, or cringe at the motorbikes and buses that overtake us on the seemingly laneless road. All the while, our guide discusses his version of life, history, and politics in Vietnam.
After stopping at a lacquer ware factory (in Asia no tour is complete without an attempt to sell you something), our guide leads us on a walk through Cho Lon Market. This time we’re here to observe rather than purchase. The Chinese marketplace is filled with stalls selling anything and everything. Shop owners sit on the floor or rest under merchandise attempting to escape from the oppressive heat.
At My Tho, we board a sampan for a cruise on the Mekong River. A visit to Unicorn Island introduces us to coconut candy, snake wine, and pythons. After a walk through a fruit orchard, we rest under a shaded pavilion to sample fruit while local musicians entertain us. Next, the sampan transports us to another area on the river where we board longboats for a ride through narrow canals. Mangroves shelter us from sunlight and the rain of a passing thunderstorm. Then it’s a walk through the jungle to a local resort restaurant where we’re served elephant fish and other Vietnamese delicacies.
This is travel writer Donna Hull's sixth installment of "Dispatch from Donna," a weekly update during her 52-day voyage aboard Regent's Seven Seas Mariner.
Luxury Accommodations
Fine Dining
After much thought—and consideration of poll results from various online message boards like Cruise Critic and Luxury Cruise Talk—Regent Seven Seas Cruises recently announced changes to its dress code. Here's the information Regent is providing to its guests:As a result of guest feedback convincingly in favor of a less formal policy, Regent Seven Seas Cruises has established a revised dress code. Effective with the 2009/2010 New Year's cruises, guests are respectfully requested to adhere to the following guidelines:Daytime Dress Code (until 6 p.m.)During the day, resort style clothing (including shorts, warm-up suits, jeans and sneakers) is acceptable in all public areas. Bare feet are acceptable only on the Pool Deck. Note: Bathing suits, while acceptable at the Pool Bar and Grill, are not considered appropriate in any indoor venue.Evening Dress Code (after 6 p.m.)Two types of dress code have been established for evenings in public areas: Elegant Casual and Formal Optional. The number of Formal Optional nights is dependent upon the length of the cruise, as follows: • Cruises of fifteen nights or less will be Elegant Casual for the duration • Cruises of sixteen nights or more will have two Formal Optional nights
Elegant Casual: Skirt, or slacks (no jeans) with blouse or sweater, pant suit or dress for ladies; slacks (no jeans) and collared shirt for gentlemen. Sport jackets are optional. Note: Jeans, T-shirts, baseball caps, shorts, sneakers and bathrobes are not considered appropriate in any public area after 6 p.m.
Formal Optional: While guests are welcome to dress each evening as per the Elegant Casual dress code, during Formal Optional evenings, guests may opt for a more formal choice of clothing including gowns and cocktail dresses for ladies; tuxedos, dinner jackets or dark suit with tie for gentlemen.
The return bus trip to the ship includes a combination of old and new Beijing. We explore the Bird’s Nest Olympic Stadium before visiting the Summer Palace for a stroll through the gardens followed by a multi-course Chinese lunch.
The hustle and bustle only increases as Mariner sails into Shanghai. Ship traffic crowds the Huangpu Jung River like rush hour on a Manhattan street. Junks, barges and ships represent old and new, reflecting the feeling that is Shanghai. A ride on the ultra-fast Maglev train complements a visit to the 18th century complex at Yu Garden.
This is travel writer Donna Hull's fourth installment of "Dispatches from Donna," a weekly update during her 52-day voyage aboard Regent's Seven Seas Mariner.At every Japanese port, Mariner is met with official delegations that swap plaques and speeches with Mariner Captain, Felice Patruno. In Hakodate and Sendai, dancing troupes wave gaily as the ship pulls into port. Fireboats spray a watery welcome in Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagasaki. Performers singing a brief excerpt from the opera, Madame Butterfly, elicit tears from the audience before Mariner leaves Nagasaki. Throughout our stay, Japan proves to be clean and efficient with a polite population that is friendly to visitors.
On the morning of Mariner’s arrival in her first Japanese port, Hakodate, passengers are required to present themselves to authorities to be fingerprinted and photographed. By the time we clear Japanese customs, the stay in Hakodate has been whittled down to a few hours. Standing on the observation deck on Mt. Hakodate, I wonder what adventures Regent could find for us if we only had more time to experience the mountainous countryside.
In Sendai, we’re introduced to the first of the many Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples included on the ship’s tour excursions. According to our guide, most Japanese claim to be secular; but these historical sites are crowded with both international and local tourists. Since the cities we are visiting were bombed during World War II, much of what we see is a rebuilt version of the original buildings.
An overnight stay in Tokyo gives us plenty of time to explore. The port authority runs a shuttle for Mariner guests to the Ginza shopping district. We brave the subway system for a ride to Akihabara, an electronic lovers paradise, where the streets and alleyways are lined with shops selling every electronic gadget known to man.
The next day, our Tokyo overview excursion takes us to Meiji Jingu, a shrine surrounded by a large park in the heart of Tokyo. The morning bus ride across town allows us to observe Tokyoites as they stream from the subways toward another workday. Later, at yet another Buddhist site, Asakusa Kannon Temple, row after row of shops selling Japanese souvenirs compete for our attention. When Mariner spends an overnight in Osaka, it’s the end of a segment for some guests while new voyagers join us for the sail to Hong Kong. After a rainy afternoon arrival, we visit Osaka Castle plus Shitennoji Temple, believed to be the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan.
The following day, Alan and I take advantage of our “in transit” status to book an eight-hour excursion to Kyoto, where many historical buildings survived World War II. Joining hundreds of Japanese school children, we tour Nijo Castle, the home of a 1600s-era shogun and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The children laugh and giggle as they pass us, saying “hello, hello.” We answer back. The flirting continues throughout the passageways of the mighty shogun’s home. Later, the Golden Pavilion dazzles us. I can only imagine how this area must look in the spring when it’s decorated with the blossoms from hundreds of cherry trees.
Mariner says goodbye to Japan with a stop in Nagasaki. Standing on deck, viewing the low mountains surrounding the harbor, it’s hard to imagine that an atomic bomb devastated the area. On a visit to the Peace Park, we walk in a pleasant plaza where plaques and statues, donated by nations from around the world, display hopes for peace. A sobering visit to the Atomic Bomb Museum ends when we stand at the detonation point of the bomb.
The Nagasaki lights twinkle as Mariner slips out of the harbor on a late-night sail-away. I’ve been impressed and intrigued by Japan. The time here has left me curious to visit again. But, on this trip, more ports remain to be explored. Next up, a short stop in Korea before visiting the Chinese cities of Dailin, Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong Kong.
—Donna Hull for LuxuryCruiseBible.com
All photos © Alan Hull and Donna Hull.
Follow Donna on Twitter, visit her blog, and return here next week for the next "Dispatch from Donna" as she travels for 52 days aboard Regent's Seven Seas Mariner from Vancouver to Singapore.
The gray, choppy waters of the Bering Sea are a good predictor of the change that is coming to our itinerary. The smooth, carefree entry into Alaskan ports is behind us. Now, as we approach the Kamchatka Peninsula of far-eastern Russia, passengers learn of the bureaucratic hurdles they must jump over before walking down the gangplank into Siberia.
Patience is the word of the day. There’s a precise procedure to follow that includes collecting passports and boarding tickets before presenting ourselves to Russian immigration authorities. A handsome, but stern, official checks for the orange stamp in my passport, turns to the photograph page then looks me up and down. No smiling or joking allowed. His beautiful assistant marks off my arrival in Petropavlovsk, Russia with a black checkmark.
After tendering to the dock, passengers proceed to excursions that include countryside visits to a dacha, city tours with stops at cultural and military museums, volcano flyovers, or scenic boat tours. Alan and I have chosen a “Visit to Petropavlovsk’s Home Volcanoes by Army Truck.”The stark, square Soviet-style apartment buildings of the town are just what we expected. But the beautiful Siberian landscape surprises us. Volcanoes, some with perfect cones sprinkled with snow, rise above the clouds. Forests of beech trees are just beginning to turn gold while watermelons still crowd roadside vegetable stands.
Our drive into the Kamchatka countryside becomes a bumpy journey up a drive riverbed. The excursion is exactly as described by the Mariner travel desk. Arriving at the base camp at Naluchevo Nature Park, we enjoy a simple lunch of grilled salmon before embarking on a two-hour hike accompanied by an exuberant young Russian guide. Two smoking volcanoes are constant companions and a photographer’s delight.
With around 20 cruise ship visits per year; the tourism infrastructure in Petropavlovsk is basic, at best. English is not widely spoken and even many of the guides speak only passable English. But, this is an opportunity to experience the true flavor of an area that hasn’t been changed much by tourism. Isn’t that what travel is all about?—Donna Hull for LuxuryCruiseBible.com
All photos © Alan Hull and Donna Hull.
Greetings from Regent Seven Seas Mariner. As my husband, Alan, and I complete our second week on this journey from Vancouver to Singapore; the splendid state of Alaska continues to enthrall us with majestic but rugged beauty.
If scenery could be called charming, that’s how I would describe Sitka. Small islands are sprinkled around Sitka Sound, many of them populated with log homes, which can be rented through the U.S. Forest Service… if you’re patient enough to withstand the five-year waiting list.
After tendering to shore, passengers disperse to a variety of cruise excursions, including whale watching or dry-suit snorkeling. But, the Russian-influenced town, and surrounding area, is easy to explore on your own.
The next day, when Mariner arrives in Hubbard Glacier, she is the only ship to enjoy the sunny scene in Desolation Bay. Passengers crowd into the Observation Lounge for the early morning view of the glacier as well as the St. Elias and Fairweather mountain ranges that loom in the background. As Captain Felice Patruno pirouettes the ship in continuous circles, the glacier calves sending a spray of water into the air, thrilling the lucky photographers who have captured the scene.
Rain pours in Seward as some passengers depart while a new group boards joining us on the journey across the Bering Sea. Since no excursions are offered, we use the time to take care of laundry and other business. A couple of hearty guests rent cars, braving the bad weather, to view the surrounding countryside.
Our Alaska exploration continues when Mariner stops at Kodiak Island, home of Kodiak bears, fish canneries, and WWII history. With stormy seas the previous night, our arrival in Kodiak has been questionable. But, Captain Patruno prevails, giving us the opportunity for a two-mile hike in Abercrombie State Park, where dramatic coastal scenes compete with abandoned bunkers and other artifacts remaining from WWII.
After a day sailing through the Aleutian Islands, we reach the end of our Alaskan ports: Dutch Harbor. The Japanese bombed this secluded outpost during WWII. Stark, tree-less mountains ring the harbor where commercial fishing is now king. Passengers are treated to school bus rides through the small enclave for glimpses of life at what seems like the edge of the world.
—Donna Hull for LuxuryCruiseBible.com
All photos © Alan Hull and Donna Hull.
Follow Donna on Twitter, visit her blog, and return here next week for the next "Dispatch from Donna" as she travels for 52 days aboard Regent's Seven Seas Mariner from Vancouver to Singapore.
A friend of mine called from Denver today to tell me that it was snowing. Yes! Snowing on September 21st! She considers this cold white stuff an omen for a long, bad winter and she wanted my advice on which Caribbean cruise to book. SeaDream Yacht Club came to mind immediately.
First up? Marvelous, majestic, massive, mind boggling Alaska. Even though I’m well traveled and have seen my share of beautiful sights, I wasn’t prepared for this state’s scenic beauty. On our first morning, Alan and I enjoyed breakfast on the back deck at La Veranda while forested views of the Inside Passage passed before us. Since then, it’s been hard to peel our eyes away from the natural beauty that is constantly parading by, just off the cabin balcony.
Alaska's Gorgeous Inside PassageIn our first port, Ketchikan, the misty, gray morning taught us our first Alaskan lesson—be prepared for changeable weather. And, don’t expect an excursion to be canceled because of rain, which isn’t surprising, considering the 162 inches of precipitation that Ketchikan receives annually.
Since ships dock right in town, shopaholics have no problem walking to the colorful clapboard buildings housing galleries and jewelry stores. Cruise excursions range from bear-watching safaris to zip line adventure to a touristy lumberjack show. Our choice? A floatplane tour of Misty Fjords National Monument. The plane detoured around low-lying clouds, then up one of the monument’s many fjords before briefly landing so that we could experience the quiet solitude of Alaskan wilderness.
As the ship progressed towards Juneau, we were treated to an early morning sail up Tracy Arm, one of Alaska’s ruggedly beautiful fjords. The Observation Lounge was filled to capacity as lecturer, Terry Breen, provided commentary. Good weather allowed the Captain to take Mariner 18 miles up the narrow fjord for spectacular views.
By the time we reached an afternoon docking in the former gold rush town of Juneau, the weather turned foul. Alaska taught us a second lesson—flexibility. Waiting under a covered awning in the port, we were advised that the Helicopter Glacier Walkabout had been cancelled. But, the helicopter flight to Mendenhall Glacier was still available. After boarding a bus, we reached the heliport, donned glacier boots and life vests before learning that it was unsafe to fly.
But, we were rewarded the next day in Skagway. As many passengers stepped aboard the White Pass Railway for the mountain ride to White Pass and back, Alan and I boarded a speedcat. The one-hour covered boat ride to Glacier Point provided views of mountains with hanging glaciers and waterfalls plunging into the water while sea gulls fished for breakfast.
After a school bus ride through the temperate rainforest, the group arrived at a staging area, where we were equipped with rubber boots, waterproof overalls, and jackets. From there, it was a short walk through the forest to the river where we boarded canoes for a journey to the foot of Davidson Glacier. After the group paddled for a while, our guide turned on the motor to the canoe as we passed back and forth through the choppy water in front of the glacier, the wind whipping around us. The wild, exhilarating experience provided one of the most outstanding cruise excursions that Alan and I have ever taken.
That afternoon, Terry Breen offered commentary as Mariner sailed through Taiya Inlet, a deep-water fjord where the mountains plunge straight down into the sea. With a comfortable seat in the Observation Lounge, champagne glass in hand, we watched as majestic mountains slipped by giving us another scenic sail-away.
Stay tuned for next week’s installment when I’ll tell you about our remaining Alaskan ports: Sitka, Hubbard Glacier, Seward, Kodiak, and Dutch Harbor.
—Donna Hull for LuxuryCruiseBible.com
All photos © Alan Hull and Donna Hull.
Follow Donna on Twitter, visit her blog, and return here next week for the next "Dispatch from Donna" as she travels for 53 days aboard Regent's Seven Seas Mariner from Vancouver to Singapore.
