The gray, choppy waters of the Bering Sea are a good predictor of the change that is coming to our itinerary. The smooth, carefree entry into Alaskan ports is behind us. Now, as we approach the Kamchatka Peninsula of far-eastern Russia, passengers learn of the bureaucratic hurdles they must jump over before walking down the gangplank into Siberia.
Patience is the word of the day. There’s a precise procedure to follow that includes collecting passports and boarding tickets before presenting ourselves to Russian immigration authorities. A handsome, but stern, official checks for the orange stamp in my passport, turns to the photograph page then looks me up and down. No smiling or joking allowed. His beautiful assistant marks off my arrival in Petropavlovsk, Russia with a black checkmark.
After tendering to the dock, passengers proceed to excursions that include countryside visits to a dacha, city tours with stops at cultural and military museums, volcano flyovers, or scenic boat tours. Alan and I have chosen a “Visit to Petropavlovsk’s Home Volcanoes by Army Truck.”The stark, square Soviet-style apartment buildings of the town are just what we expected. But the beautiful Siberian landscape surprises us. Volcanoes, some with perfect cones sprinkled with snow, rise above the clouds. Forests of beech trees are just beginning to turn gold while watermelons still crowd roadside vegetable stands.
Our drive into the Kamchatka countryside becomes a bumpy journey up a drive riverbed. The excursion is exactly as described by the Mariner travel desk. Arriving at the base camp at Naluchevo Nature Park, we enjoy a simple lunch of grilled salmon before embarking on a two-hour hike accompanied by an exuberant young Russian guide. Two smoking volcanoes are constant companions and a photographer’s delight.
With around 20 cruise ship visits per year; the tourism infrastructure in Petropavlovsk is basic, at best. English is not widely spoken and even many of the guides speak only passable English. But, this is an opportunity to experience the true flavor of an area that hasn’t been changed much by tourism. Isn’t that what travel is all about?—Donna Hull for LuxuryCruiseBible.com
All photos © Alan Hull and Donna Hull.
